Learn Tying a Mop Fly Easily

Tying a Mop Fly: The Unapologetically Effective Ugly Duckling of the Fly Box

Alright, let's talk about the mop fly. You know, that slightly ridiculous, incredibly simple, yet devastatingly effective fly that some purists love to hate. If you're into fly fishing, chances are you've heard of it, probably seen one, and maybe even had a secretly successful day with one. For many, including myself, tying a mop fly isn't just about crafting a fishing lure; it's about embracing simplicity and sometimes, just sometimes, throwing tradition out the window for the sake of catching fish.

The Mop Fly Phenomenon: Love it or Loathe It, It Catches Fish

The mop fly is, without a doubt, one of the most polarizing flies in modern fly fishing. On one hand, you have the traditionalists who scoff at its humble origins (yes, it literally uses material from a car wash mitt or a dollar store mop head) and its lack of intricate detail. They might call it "junk food for fish" or "cheating." And then, on the other hand, you have the pragmatists – the folks who, like me, care less about how a fly looks on the tying bench and more about what it does in the water. And what the mop fly does, my friends, is catch fish. Lots of them.

It's an absolute game-changer, especially for beginners to fly tying. If you're just starting out, struggling with tiny hackles or delicate wings, tying a mop fly will be a breath of fresh air. It builds confidence, teaches basic techniques, and before you know it, you'll have a box full of fish-catching machines. Trust me, there's nothing quite like the grin you get when a hefty rainbow trout smashes a fly you made from something you found under the kitchen sink.

What Makes a Mop Fly a Mop Fly? The Anatomy of Simplicity

At its heart, a mop fly is incredibly basic. It typically consists of a hook, a bead, a short segment of that distinctive mop material, and some thread to hold it all together. That's it. No fancy dubbing loops, no precise wing cases, no delicate tails. This minimalist approach is precisely why it's so approachable for tiers of all skill levels.

Its effectiveness, I believe, comes from a few key factors. The material itself is super soft and absorbent, meaning it takes on water readily and has a fantastic, lifelike movement in the current. It also presents a buggy, tempting profile that can imitate everything from a juicy drowned insect to a caddis larva or even a scud. Plus, with a heavy tungsten bead, it sinks fast, getting down into the feeding zone where the big ones often hang out.

Gathering Your Gear: The Humble Toolkit for Tying a Mop Fly

One of the best things about tying a mop fly is how little specialized gear you actually need. You probably have most of this stuff lying around, or you can grab it without breaking the bank.

  • The Hook: I usually go for a jig hook, typically sizes 10-14. The jig style helps the fly ride hook-point-up, reducing snags on the bottom – which is great, because these flies are designed to get deep. A standard nymph hook works too, though!
  • The Bead: This is crucial for getting your fly down. Tungsten beads are heavy and compact, making them ideal. I prefer gold, silver, or black, but don't be afraid to experiment with brighter colors like chartreuse or orange. Pick a size that matches your hook (e.g., 3.0mm or 3.5mm for a size 12 hook).
  • The Mop Material: Ah, the star of the show! Head down to your local dollar store or auto parts shop. Look for those cheap microfiber car wash mitts or actual mop heads. They come in a rainbow of colors. Chartreuse, cream, orange, brown, olive, black – grab a few! You'll be surprised how many flies you can get from one mitt.
  • Thread: Any standard tying thread (6/0 or 8/0) will do the trick. Pick a color that either matches your mop material or provides a subtle contrast.
  • Optional Weight: If you want extra sink, you can wrap a few turns of lead-free wire on the hook shank before adding the bead.
  • Tools:
    • Vise: Essential for holding your hook steady.
    • Bobbin: To hold and dispense your thread.
    • Scissors: Sharp ones, for cutting thread and the mop material.
    • Whip Finisher: Highly recommended for a neat and secure finish, but you can do half-hitches with your fingers too.
    • Superglue/Head Cement: For added durability, especially on the thread wraps.

Step-by-Step: Tying Your First Mop Fly – It's Easier Than You Think!

Ready to get started? This is probably one of the quickest and most rewarding flies you'll ever tie.

Step 1: Secure the Hook and Add the Bead

First things first, grab your hook and clamp it securely in your vise. The hook shank should be horizontal. Now, slide your tungsten bead onto the hook. Make sure the smaller hole of the bead faces the hook eye. This helps it sit snugly. Push it right up against the eye.

Step 2: Establish the Thread Base

Attach your tying thread to the hook shank directly behind the bead. Start wrapping backward in tight, touching turns, creating a smooth base. You want to wrap back about two-thirds of the way down the shank, ending roughly above the hook barb. Trim off your tag end.

Step 3: Attach the Mop Material

This is where the magic happens! Take your mop material and use your scissors to cut a small, rectangular strip. The length will depend on how long you want your finished fly to be, but aim for something around 1 to 1.5 inches. The width should be enough to create a good, chunky body.

Now, take one end of your cut mop strip and lay it on top of the hook shank, right where your thread stopped (about two-thirds of the way back). The material should extend backward past the hook bend, forming the "tail" of your fly. Use your thread to secure it tightly to the top of the hook shank. Make several tight wraps, binding the mop material down. Don't be shy; really cinch it!

Step 4: Build the Collar/Body

Once the mop material is securely tied in, take the forward end of the mop material (the part pointing towards the hook eye) and fold it back over the wraps you just made, so it points towards the hook bend again. This creates a slightly thicker, more durable body. Now, use your thread to wrap forward over the folded-back mop material, building a neat thread collar behind the bead. Try to create a smooth taper, ending your wraps snugly against the back of the bead. Trim any excess mop material sticking out.

Step 5: Finish It Up!

With your thread wraps complete and snug against the bead, it's time to finish the fly. Use your whip finisher to create a strong, clean knot right behind the bead. If you don't have a whip finisher, a few careful half-hitches will work. Once knotted, snip your tying thread. For extra durability, put a small drop of superglue or head cement on the thread wraps behind the bead. This will lock everything in place and make your fly last longer through multiple fish encounters. Finally, if the "tail" of your mop material seems too long, give it a little trim to your desired length. Sometimes a shorter, stubbier tail looks more buggy.

Tips and Tricks for Mop Fly Mastery

  • Color Play: Don't limit yourself! Mop material comes in a million colors. Chartreuse, orange, and cream are staples, but olive, brown, and black can be deadly too, especially in clear water or when fish are being picky.
  • Size It Up (or Down): Vary your hook size and the amount of mop material. A larger mop fly might be great for prospecting in murky water or targeting bigger fish, while a smaller one could be key in clear, low-flow conditions.
  • Durability Hacks: That superglue is your best friend. Also, make sure your thread wraps are really tight. A well-tied mop fly should stand up to quite a bit of abuse.
  • Presentation is Key: Don't just cast it out there! Mop flies are excellent for indicator nymphing, Euro nymphing, or even as a dropper off a dry fly. Get it down to the fish, let it drift naturally, and be ready for a strike!

Why the Mop Fly Works (and Why Some People Hate It)

The effectiveness of the mop fly often boils down to its generalist appeal. It doesn't precisely imitate one specific insect, but rather suggests a host of high-calorie food items. Its soft, wiggly material looks alive in the water, and its dense profile makes it a substantial meal. Trout, being opportunistic feeders, rarely pass up an easy meal, and the mop fly certainly looks like one.

As for the hate? Well, fly fishing has a long, storied tradition, and some folks feel that a fly made from a cleaning product somehow cheapens the art. They see it as a shortcut, an "unsportsmanlike" way to catch fish. My philosophy? If it's legal, effective, and gets people out on the water having fun, then it's a good thing. The mop fly introduces new tiers to the craft and helps new anglers catch fish, building their confidence and deepening their love for the sport. And honestly, who cares what a fish thinks of your fly's pedigree when it's in your net?

My Personal Mop Fly Stories

I've had some truly memorable days thanks to the humble mop fly. One spring, I was fishing a notoriously difficult tailwater known for finicky trout. It was a tough day, nothing was working – not my perfectly tied pheasant tails, not my elegant emergers. Frustrated, I tied on a cream-colored mop fly on a size 12 jig hook, almost as a last resort. On my very first cast, fishing it under an indicator, my strike indicator darted. I set the hook, and after a thrilling fight, landed one of the largest brown trout I'd ever seen in that river. It was a moment of pure vindication, proving that sometimes, the simplest things are the most profound. Since then, it's become a confidence pattern for me, especially when the bite is slow or the water is a bit off-color.

Conclusion: Embrace the Simplicity, Catch More Fish

So, whether you're a seasoned fly tier looking for a quick and effective pattern, or a complete beginner eager to tie your first fly, tying a mop fly is an excellent choice. It's cheap, it's easy, and most importantly, it consistently catches fish. Don't let snobbery deter you from experiencing the sheer joy of fooling a fish with a fly you created with your own two hands, especially when that fly comes from such an unexpected origin. Give it a try – I promise, your fly box (and your fish count) will thank you. Tight lines!